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young&restless “RITUAL” Autumn Winter 2010 Campaign by Test Shoot Gallery

August 26th, 2010 Test Shoot Gallery 1 comment

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The Team
Photography / May Lin Le Goff
Designer & Creative Direction / Ashburn Eng
Graphic Artist / Yong Yi ( www.yongyidesign.com )
Make-up and Hair / Larry Yeo using Cle De Peau Beaute and Redken
Model  / Egzona Lulaj ( Upfront Models )
Styling Assistance / Shanna Matthew  

 
 
 
 
 
 
The Interview 

TSG is excited and very proud to announce the launch of the new label young&restless, a line designed by our TSG founder, Ashburn Eng, in collaboration with Singaporean label max.tan. Hear it from the man himself about the setting up of the label, crossing over to design and the inspiration behind the first collection titled “Ritual” in our exclusive TSG interview. By Luth Seah Zhiqiang

 

 

 
TSG: Can you tell us how you created your Young&Restless label?  

After a successful ad campaign collaboration, Ashburn Eng and Max Tan formed a friendship that lead both the fashion stylist and fashion designer respectively to more creative partnerships. Often, the pair would find themselves nodding their heads in agreement with each other’s opinions and comments on most topics; fashion related or not. Hence, with no surprises, aesthetically, the pair are very much in-sync. Therefore, “Young&Restless” is launched.

 

 

TSG: Where does the label’s name originate from? 

Not to be taken literally to refer to hyperactive youth, “Young&Restless” simply caters to women who view themselves as carefree, and not bounded by the “reservations” that comes with age. It is for the free-spirited, for the confident, and for the unpretentious. They are not bothered about the numbers of age, they are forever young. They will not be tied down; they are always on the move.

 

 

TSG: How would you describe your design aesthetic?

I like things to be instinctive, random and pure. I like the idea of  juxtaposing masculine tailoring with the softness that I put in the fabric so there is a duality between sensuality and strength. I am not particularly frilly and I like to avoid things that are too embellished. Definitely appreciate a certain hardness and drama.  A firm believer in non-traditional pattern-making and I avoid superfluous seaming and construction in my apparels; seams should follow a woman’s body and thereby accentuate it. Not merely using the amount of fabric and cut it the easiest and most cost effective way like in a mass market factory.

 

 

TSG: What kind of person wears your designs?

A modern woman who is sophisticated yet bold enough to be day tripper and desires to be different.

 

 

TSG: What made you decide to get into fashion design? Have you always been interested in it?

I always have great interest in design, photography and fashion. The accumulative years of styling and consultation experiences working with magazine, commercial clients, design graduates and fashion designers have shaped the way I understand how publications, fashion and retail businesses work. Therefore I feel it is a natural progression for me to craft something on my own.

 

 

TSG: Your debut collection has a somewhat occult theme behind it. What’s the inspiration?

I wanted to work with the popular subject of the occult. A past exhibition that I came across entitled “Worship the light, Worship the dark”, instigate an explicit relationship between spiritual forces and something potentially sinister. The idea of worshipping the light has been perverted into something more evil. Certain more hedonistic experiences occur in the dark as well. It is a free space to experiment with little conscious morale restraint. For me, it is not the gothic that intrigues but the darker side of imagination, rather the culture of fear and self limitation that exists in some urban contexts today.

 

 

TSG: Have you ever experienced the supernatural?

I had a very scary experience once, that even till today I am still confused about what actually happened. My friend and I were walking in around in Chinatown early one morning after a late supper. In the corner of my eye, I saw this old man with slivery hair and shabby torned clothes. I first thought he was a hobo, but then I realised that his eyes were hollowed out.

I did not feel that something was amiss as I presumed the dim lighting was playing tricks on my eyes. But I turned to my friend and asked if he saw the same thing. He nodded in agreement. We both turn back for a second look of the old man but he had disappeared. At that point, we walked as fast as our legs could carry us.

 

 

TSG: What is the quality that brings your clothing line to life?

I create my clothes as an expression of my daydreams and use the clothes to evoke emotions from my clients. Sometimes, I would describe my job as selling a dream to my clients. I also enjoy bringing in the influence of the occult, fetishes and fantasies into my clothes, to deliver a different state of mind. I hope to impart this to the young&restless’s wearer.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Stockist

MAX.TAN at Parco Marina Bay - 9 Raffles Boulevard, Millenia Walk, Parco next NEXT section, Level 2

Links

www.young-and-restless.com (coming your way) 

 

Interview with the trio behind the fashion label “Reckless Ericka”

June 22nd, 2010 Test Shoot Gallery 1 comment

  


 

The Interview

The trio behind the label “Reckless Ericka”, Afton Chen, Ruth Marbun, and Louis Koh, have proven that they are showing no signs of slowing things down. From launching a new line “Odds by Reckless Ericka”, to the opening of their first boutique “The Reckless Shop” at the Stamford house recently, it is almost safe to say that they are nothing less than being ambitious. Telling us more about the label and the philosophy of their new line, the different tastes of music that they prefer, the trio-force behind Reckless Ericka reveals it all in our exclusive interview.  By Luth Seah Zhiqiang 

  

TSG: How would you describe your design aesthetic? 
  

Balancing classic tailoring with the edgy use of silhouettes and colours, and constructing avant-garde silhouettes with classic details. Infusing edginess and quirkiness into our brand’s identity and core.
 
  

TSG: What is the philosophy behind the new line “Odds by Reckless Ericka”? 

‘Odds by Reckless Ericka’ is a chic, casual and street styled womenswear. Odds features drapes on jerseys that stresses on the basic silhouette, yet enhances the femininity of a woman. In this, we hope it will capture the youthfulness and energy of women. It is priced to reach out to the general masses. 

 

 

TSG: Tell us a bit about yourself, your background and where you’re from, your environment while growing up?

Afton: I am Singaporean. Part of my childhood was spent in Kaohsiung (Taiwan) where I had some of my best memories. The school that I had attended (Kaohsiung American School) had nurtured the creative side in me with various projects and skits. I enjoyed designing my own costumes for the skits and that was when I discovered the fun in designing and clothes making. My parents have been amazingly supportive of me to pursue my dreams to allow me to continue my work and I am thankful for their love. 

  

  

TSG: Was becoming a fashion designer what you always wanted to do in your life?
 

Afton & Ruth: Yes, it’s what we’ve always wanted to do.

 

 

TSG: Your designs have won you a sort of celebrity fan base that includes Adam Lambert, Sara Nuru, Rebecca Tan and Nadya Hutagalung. How do you feel about it?

We’re really glad to have the wonderful opportunity to be able to work with talented artistes like them. It was definitely a great experience.

 

 

TSG: Who has been the greatest influence on your career and who are your favourite designers?

Afton: Aitor Throup. I admire his fascinating work that pays huge attention to the anatomy of the human body, and his illustrations are really intriguing. My other favourite designers would be Ann Demeulemeester, Paul Poiret, Yohji Yamamoto, Alexander McQueen, Elsa Schiaparelli and Mihara Yasuhiro.
Ruth: My parents are my greatest influence for my career. It may sound cliché but it’s them that made me who I am today. To name one of my favourite designers would be Vivienne Westwood. I admire her madness and passion in everything she believes in. 

 

 

TSG: How did You, Ruth and Louis meet?

Afton: 3 of us met in school!

 

TSG: Do you have a mentor or inspirational figure who has guided or influenced you?

We are truly grateful to Nic Wong and Daniel Boey. 

 

 

TSG: How different is working on your own, compared to working with others?

When working on your own, you have to be conscientious in managing your time as the line blurs between your personal life and work. A lot of overtime work involved, but we love our brand!
 

 

TSG: Do you think the best creative work is developed in private without too much outside influence?

Afton: Creative work is best when there’re more heads involved in the thinking process because the design will turn out to be a melting pot of styles, cultures and artistic viewpoints.I don’t have a fixed, single object of influence or inspiration, because inspiration is the strangest thing! It comes from everywhere, in any form and best of all, it springs up when you least expected.
Ruth: I think the best creative works are always the ones that come sincerely from the heart with all the passion. 

 

 

TSG: Who would be the ideal public ambassador for the brand? And why?

Afton: Patti Smith.
Ruth: Karen Elson will be great. Simply because I love her. With Jefferson Hack. That will be awesome.
Louis: Johnny Depp, he is quirky!
 

 

TSG: How do you find your materials, and what goes into your decisions when putting them together?

We make bi-annual trips overseas for fabric hunting. We wouldn’t want to limit ourselves so we keep an open mind while looking. We love the challenge of piecing the materials together and set the mind ticking and decide when we have everything in front of us. 

 

 

TSG: In no more than five words, what does beauty represent to you?

Afton: Confidence. 

 

 

TSG: What is your choice of music?

Afton: Swing big band arranger Cab Calloway, Ella Fitzgerald, Anita O’Day, and British rock from the 60s and 70s (The Beatles, The Kinks, Joy Division, The Who, Queen, Siouxsie and the Banshees). Music has always been one of the sources of inspiration for me. There’s always something about the musical arrangements, vocal harmonies, and lyrics that intrigues me in a way that I can’t simply put it to words.
Ruth: I’m more a band person though I listen to many kinds of music. I’m into the oldies, a bit stuck in the nineties, and love to surprise my self with new ones. To name a few: Bob Dylan, The Smiths, The Kinks, Jamie T, Two Door Cinema Club. And I love to sing and dance to music!
Louis: Pop rock, because it keeps me happy. The Killers :)
 

 

TSG: If you could live in any time period, what period would you choose and why?

Afton: I love it now but if I had to choose, it would be the Roaring Twenties. I am fascinated with the sudden dynamic changes in the social, arts, music and fashion scenes that are so different from the Victorian lifestyle. This was also when modern fashion was created and I would love to attend Marchesa Casati’s masquerade balls.
 

 

TSG: What’s the best and worst thing about being a young designer in Singapore?

Best: The Singapore retail industry today is definitely opening up to young local designers and labels and there has been great support from organisations like SPRING Singapore, Singapore Tourism Board and Design Singapore backing our industry. Worst: We yearn for more acceptance and better education about local designers to the consumers.

 

 

TSG: What has the industry taught you?

Afton: To have hope, as it is a positive expectation of good!
Ruth: Many things. How to be tough on decisions and compromise at the same time.
Louis: Taught me to be truthful to the brand and it never hurts to go the extra mile. 

 

 

TSG: In your opinion, what’s a designer’s role in the current economic climate?

It’s easy to lament and blame the effects of recession, but instead of doing so, a designer should look into re-branding or restructuring to appeal and stay above the crowd.

 

 

 

 

Stockist / Link  

Reckless Ericka
The Reckless Shop                                     Stamford House, #01-03 Tel: +65 6338 8246

Geometric Minds

  
 

 

 




  
 
 
 
 
 
 
Geometric elements can be found widely in the Spring Summer 2010 collections from the Marina Bay’s Parco next NEXT designers, with each incorporating the theme differently in their individualistic ways.
From the body-conscious to draping silhouettes, the minimalist to the military influence, the range is so broad in a single place that it is not hard to find pieces from these creative minds that relate.
 
 
 

  

  

 

 

The Team

 

Photography / May Lin Le Goff
Creative Fashion Direction / Ashburn Eng
Hair & Make-up / Mav Chang
Model / Emily Green  (Upfront Models),  Danielle Thomas (Looque Models)
Text / Luth Seah Zhiqiang
Styling Assistance / Shanna Matthew 

  

Stockists

 

1. Sleveelees turtleneck shirt, SkinsNBones
2. Cut-out dress, Pauline.Ning
3. Pleated top and matching pleated leggings, Mae Pang
4. Y-backless dress, SkinsNBones
5. Dress, VELIANI
6. Zigzag dress, YUMUMU
7. Drap dress, Tilly
8. Pleated dress, phylia   

All clothes are available from PARCO next Next at Parco Marina Bay  

 

“The Asylum – Trapped in” Spring Summer 2010 Campaign by bedlamite

January 23rd, 2010 Test Shoot Gallery 5 comments

 

 

 

 

   

 

Judgmental comments we face daily. The confinement by non-required expectations. No progression in life from personal limitations and fear. People being viewed differently just because they do not follow the general “rules”. All these pushing us into individual imprisonment; we feel wrapped up and powerless. 

 
Designer Terry Yeo bring this sense of repression into bedlamite’s Spring Summer 2010 collection entitled “The Asylum – Trapped in”. His left of center approach is a much needed fresh breath to local menswear that need not stay typical, rather Yeo maintains a strongly masculine silhouette whilst offering up unexpected lengths and textures with manipulation within the form of traditional menswear. The garments give a sense of entrapment and constriction all the while looking composed and tailored. 
 
The Team
Photography / Micky Wong
Creative and Fashion Direction / Ashburn Eng
Fashion Designer / bedlamite by Terry Yeo
Hairstylist / Chris Ruth
Make-up / Larry Yeo
Text / Luth Seah Zhiqiang
Model / Eduardo Fiorindo (Mannequin)
Styling Assistance / Shanna Matthew
 
 
 

More than willing to express his fond of the insanity in every human being, Terry Yeo opened up about his menswear label bedlamite, design inspirations behind this season, and his latest collaboration with TSG for his spring summer 2010 ad campaign in our exclusive interview.  


Test Shoot Gallery (TSG):
 Terry tell us how you came up with the label “bedlamite”and what is the design philosophy behind this label?

Terry Yeo (TY): The label name is inspired from a London asylum that opened in the 12th century. Bedlamites was the term used to address the patients that were discharged from there. I like how the word has an archaic meaning in the current world and yet is ridden with a past of the insane and the lingering reminisce of lunacy burdened on the word. bedlamite will have future collections with themes relating to different mental situations. 

I want to play with unusual cuttings within the form of traditional shirts and trousers. I attempt this with the shifting of the seams to play with the structure, darting, an unexpected opening for the clothes, and with variable detailing in pockets, collars and cuffs. bedlamite wearer will be someone who is willing to explore beyond the traditional outfit, someone who wants to go a notch above “safe” and notices the technicality behind the garment. 

TSG: Tell us more about your inspirations behind bedlamite this season? How was that inspiration first sparked?  

TY:  We work in our own quirky/strange ways, and yet we are seen as different or our actions are frowned upon by others if we do not follow the general herd. This collection inspiration talks about how the daily limitations and strange confining expectations we put ourselves in causes our conscious effort to live felt trapped in; driving us crazy in our own self made asylum.  

TSG: In the eyes of Terry Yeo, what exactly is fashion?  

TY: Fashion is part of our life and how we express ourselves. We transmit what we feel that day without saying a word through what we wear, the accessories we layer on and the colours we select. It is an expansion of our creative psyche, to share our view or mindset for that day.  

TSG: Which do you enjoy more: the formulation or the implementation of an idea?  

TY: I enjoy implementation of a collection. As I like to create the outfit from a flat drawing to an actual three-dimensional piece. I enjoy the drafting part like how to create the outfit, shifting of the seams to the measurement of the garment and playing with the dimensions of the clothes.  

TSG: Up to now, many would assume that you are more of a menswear designer. Give us a sneak peek of what we’re able to expect from bedlamite.  

TY: Our mission is to create an unconventional style beyond the imagination of tradition. Our vision is to create a new style that provides consumers with another option when purchasing, while providing the brand an opportunity to create a new fashion statements in the local fashion line.  

As mentioned earlier, the bedlamite theme will always have a link to different form of mental institutions, insanity classifications or levels of madness. I think it is a great way to express frustrations from our surroundings and express it through the clothes we wear.  

TSG: If there is a person you look up to, or aspire to be, who would it be?  

TY: Vivienne Westwood. She can use the old English aesthetic and twist it around to create different new age ideas. Since I am also interested in structural detailing and the technicality behind creating outfits, I love how her clothes seams runs around the garment, and her play with structure. She keeps away from convention and has kept to her aesthetics.  

TSG: What made you collaborate with Test Shoot Gallery for your ad campaign this season?  

TY: Test Shoot Gallery has an experimental vision. I like seeing how each shoot has its own concept. It is expression of the clothing without putting the clothes into direct product placement. It is more about the atmosphere or feel of the brand.  

TSG: How did you get to know about Test Shoot Gallery?  

TY: From industry friends who have noticed the creativity of TSG. I even heard from friends outside of the industry. These friends are drawn to the artistic vision and efforts committed to the spreads TSG produce.  

TSG: Is the idea of creative collaboration important to you?  

TY: Of course. I get my inspirations from different media and different ideas. I love such collaborations as they bring in fresh ideas and share different views all together.  

TSG: Many designers have been exploring the different mediums of presenting their work through videos and short films. Would you consider catching up with that trend in the future?  

TY: Currently I have no plans to do that. But in the future, of course I am open to ideas about incorporating my designs into art installations or even short films. It will be exciting to explore different mediums to reinterpret fashion and its purpose.  

TSG: What can we look forward to from bedlamite next season?  

TY: We’re in the midst of diagnosing and preparing the right treatment for a male patient who suffers from Schizophrenic behavior. Excuse us while we study and proceed with the right treatment.  

TSG: Lastly, your thoughts on the future of fashion? Both the domestic and overseas industries.  

TY: With the growth of fashion trends education over the Internet, fashion awareness is spreading faster and this allows more people to become fashion conscious. Healthier competition between designers allows for better 

designs to be churned out. Fail to make a dent, and you sink. Overseas consumers are getting more aware of our little red dot in fashion as we continue to expand. With globalization through Internet shopping, consumers can choose to buy worldwide. Expect the fashion consumerism to be more accessible.  

TSG: Thank you for this wonderful conversation.  

TY: My pleasure
 
Stockists 
 

  

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

boutique will be available from Parco at Millenia Walk from April 2010.

  

 

Know Who I Am…?

November 30th, 2009 Test Shoot Gallery 3 comments












He shall not be perceived, she shall not pick sides
She is not pigeon-holed, he might not be with your likes
They prefer to be unjustified but remained unrecognized
They lived in a different perceptions, in a world viewed in two dimensions

With no gender constrains, works from a lineup of Singaporean designers were put together to illustraten androgeny. It’s a celebration, not a demonstrational statement.

The Team

Photography / Micky Wong
Fashion Direction / Ashburn Eng
Model & Text / Luth Seah Zhiqiang
Hair & Make-up / Larry Yeo
Fashion Co-ordinator / Shanna Matthew

Special Thanks to 

Lionnel Lim from E-3 communiations & design
Aaron Kok and Jasmine Tuan from Black Market
Anthony from Converse
Jeffrey and Desmond Yang from abyzz
Jr Chan and Keith Png from Hide & Seek

Stockists

1. Cotton shirt; drappery cardigan, Max Tan.
2. Backless top, Stolen at Blackmarket.
3 & 4. Quilted dress, abyzz. critter hat, Sundays.
5. Cotton shirt; jacket; woven bag (worn as skirt), ForInSaneHuman. Pleated necklace, Kwodrent at Blackmarket.
6. Cardigan; leggings, La Belle. fringe cardigan, Elohim at Hide and Seek. Multi-chain necklace, Unfinished at BlackMarket.
7. Shawl jacket; drop-crotch pants, La Belle. Sneaker, Converse.
8. Double-breasted Jacket, Coupe-Cousu. 6-sleeves top, Nikicio at Blackmarket. Vest with woven applique (worn reversed), ForInSaneHuman.
9. Pleated top, from Phylia Poh. Ruched leggings, from Mae Pang.
10. Critter hat, Sundays.
Coupe-Cousu, ForInsaneHuman, Le Belle, Mae Pang, Max Tan, Phylia Poh and SUNDAYS designs will be available from Parco at Millenia Walk from April 2010.


Quotes from fashion individuals about their thoughts on the androgynous aesthetics:
 

 

Ultimately, in essence, there is no difference between men and women. Accepting the other sex part uniqueness within ourselves could be the end of the quest for equality between men and women…

- Lionel Roudaut, LASALLE Fashion Design Programme Leader

 

Clothes serve its basic purpose of covering one’s body, to identify and to beautify. Why should clothes then be ‘en-slaved’ to becoming a uniform for a gender?

- Max Tan, fashion designer of max.tan

 

Androgynous fashion is not about donning apparel to resemble the other sex. It’s about adoring your own sex, it’s about being comfortable in your own skin, gender or sexuality, so much so that you do not care what contemporary apparel does to separate males from females

- Larry Lam, fashion designer of SUNDAYS

 

I think life will be pretty boring without people willing to push the boundaries and dress for themselves rather than being bothered with what the world says is acceptable.”

- Priscilla Tan, fashion designer of CHALK

 

Limitations are set by the general society on what can or cannot a man/woman should wear. However, watch out for the overlapping details from menswear to womenswear and vice versa.

- Terry Yeo, fashion designer of ForInSaneHuman

 

Androgynous fashion has existed before our time. It is not just in recent years that androgynous fashion was birthed. In 1920s, the flappers, they defied social norms and adopted silhouettes similar to boys

- Carlos Keng, fashion blogger of VOGUEITE

 

I think the general public in Singapore are able to accept certain androgynous style that is unisex and if they consist of silhouettes that is still deemed as acceptable dressing, it will still be difficult for them to accept a man wearing a skirt even if the skirt has an androgynous connotation attached to it.

- Tilly Soelistyo, fashion designer of TILLY

 

We’ve been ingrained from young to think that each gender must assume certain roles, to dress in a certain manner, and what is needed is to break free of those restrictions in your own head. Go spend some time in the opposite gender’s department, pick something up and head to the changing room and if it looks good on you, people aren’t going to question whether you found it in the menswear or womenswear department.

- Darren Ho, executive editor for August Magazine

 

I don’t think much can be done to force the public to accept what is viewed as fringe fashion except to give them time to be exposed to the unorthodox, and hope that they become more open-minded through education.

- How Kay Lii, fashion writer of Female Magazine

 

Why confine yourself to a constrained mind of the general, when there is plenty clothes out there to wear? Do you not find such restrainment limits your own growth and the progress choices in humanity?

- Larry Yeo, beauty editor of Test Shoot Gallery

 

I am a model who seems to pull off more feminine clothing more than anything. I feel that it all depends on the person. Most people would like to see me masculine but in all reality I am really not that masculine but not a girl either, I just feel comfortable in my own way

- Shaun Ross, Model

 

It doesn’t matter if you are boy or girl! Just enjoy the unbounded love of fashion!

- Ashburn Eng, founder and creative director of Test Shoot Gallery

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