The Team
Photography / May Lin Le Goff
Designer & Creative Direction / Ashburn Eng
Graphic Artist / Yong Yi ( www.yongyidesign.com )
Make-up and Hair / Larry Yeo using Cle De Peau Beaute and Redken
Model  / Egzona Lulaj ( Upfront Models )
Styling Assistance / Shanna Matthew  

TSG is excited and very proud to announce the launch of the new label young&restless, a line designed by our TSG founder, Ashburn Eng, in collaboration with Singaporean label max.tan. Hear it from the man himself about the setting up of the label, crossing over to design and the inspiration behind the first collection titled “Ritual” in our exclusive TSG interview. By Luth Seah Zhiqiang

The Interview

A veteran couturier for the past two decades, Tan Yoong might just be the only designer from our local ground to reach legendary status. Known for his exquisite craftmanship and tailoring from his made-to-measure label, which includes a couture bridal line, it should come with no surprise that his main group of clients are attributed with having elegant taste.

Tan Yoong gives us an eye-opening view of the highs and lows of his prolific career thus far, and hints at what he has in store for his label in our exclusive Test Shoot Gallery interview. By Luth Seah Zhiqiang

TSG: What kind of environment did you grow up in?

I can recall that I enjoyed drawing from a young age. I frequently used chalk to draw female forms attending different parties in different  outfits, as if they had a endless supply of clothes designed for parties.

My parents and siblings were very supportive of my choice to do art despite the fact of them having little understanding of the arts. Perhaps it was because I was the youngest in the family.

I was naturally attracted to the aesthetics and beauty of the female form (always sketching made-up eyes or lips). As a teenager, I was very much influenced by my sister’s many issues of Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar. I remember David Bailey’s shoots with Jean Shrimpton, Penelope Tree and Marie Helvin, and also the pictures of Irving Penn and Horst. I was fascinated by the compositions in the photos, and it molded my base of aesthetic appreciation.

After pre-university, I pursued the arts by enrolling into the Nanyang Academy of Fine Arts. After graduation, I became a graphic artist, because back in those days, aspiring locasl fashion designers were unheard of!

Eventually, I went into advertising and I worked my way up to become an art director in BateyAds, which really widened my view to the world of design. It sharpened my skills enough to differentiate and allowed me to strive towards an international feel in all aspects of my work. Till today, I am still applying the knowledge learnt from advertising to my fashion designing.

TSG: What was the starting point for you in the arts? How did you know that you wanted to become an artist?

I think it is a gift from God. I was always my art teachers’ favourite student. Always excelling in art although I did badly in other subjects.

I excelled even in my advertising days when I won top awards in poster design, lettering design, interior design and fashion design. I best expressed my ideas in an artsy way, and I enjoyed and appreciated anything to do with art expression – be it photography, fashion, culture, dance, music, etc. I still do of course!
 

TSG: How would you describe your design aesthetic?

My design aesthetic would be ethereal and fluid, always feminine and dreamy in terms of silhouette and detailing.

TSG: Why the move from being an art director to a fashion designer, and how do you compare it to your job as an art director?

First of all, I love fashion. Unlike advertising (especially locally because one’s creativity is controlled or dictated by your clients), fashion gives me more freedom to fantasize and dream. I am not a wordsmith, so if I am not in fashion, I would most probably be doing something associated with fine arts, photography, or interior design.
 

TSG:  What is the biggest risk you’ve ever taken?

To quit advertising and start my own fashion label without knowing anything about the business!

TSG: What was the most excited project you had been involved and why?

Two fashion design contests I took part in Tokyo in 1974 and 1976 while working in advertising. Those were the only chances I could show off my fashion flair and I was the first non-Japanese to win worldwide! I felt like I was representing Singapore and it was my first trip to Japan, where I was chauffeured everywhere with a lady translator in tow. It was an amazing experience!
 
 

TSG: You certainly seem to be reaching for the surreal and cinematic effects in your advertising campaigns for your label. What led you in that direction with your work? Did you feel disillusioned with mainstream fashion photography?

I am very much a dreamer. I like to think about a woman in different moods and situations. I try to break free from repeating my works and to achieve a cosmopolitan appeal to my designs.
 

TSG: Do you like the models doing typical model poses when you are directing the shoots?

In the beginning, the models called me a professional bone-breaker, because I put them in impossible poses just to be unique! Nowadays, I want them to be natural, but still portraying a certain character in a story. Of course, it has to show my clothes in the perfect angle.
 

TSG: In your opinion, what’s a designer’s role in the current economic climate?

I think designers have to work more magic to attract. What’s the balance between refining the signature of the house each season and doing something new? It seems there’s tremendous pressure now to do something completely new every time. Yes, it’s not easy to achieve the balance to please your followers and to attract new customers.
 

TSG: In five words, what does beauty represent to you?

Anything that pleases my eyes.

TSG: What other artists do you admire in your own field of work?

Currently, I admire the design sensibilities of Alber Elbaz for Lanvin, as well as the Mulleavy sisters from Rodarte.  Though, my all-time favourite is definitely still Christian Larcoix!
 

TSG: What was your most memorable work experience?

One of that moments has to be collaborating with photographer extraordinaire, Willie Tang. It is the way he shoots. Always inspiring and demanding perfection, whether it is from the models, the stylist, the setting, basically everything!

He has influenced my works and creative vision to higher standards; to try and view the ideas with perfection.
 

TSG: What makes you laugh? 

I laugh easily, I love sharing my laughter and joy with close ones. Although my friends always tease me about having a fierce exterior demeanour.

TSG: What are you working on at the moment, and what future projects do you have? 

For the year end, I am preparing the looks for my campaign, and I am exploring the idea of a film for that collection.

TSG: Do you have any advice for young people who would like to start a career as a fashion designer?
 
No advice, except that they need to have a lot of passion and patience, and be very focused on their work.
Link

Tan Yoong

The Interview

Let us face it, women can be vicious. Executed as a self-defense “tool”, or just out of fulfillment for their dark side, they are the species not to be underestimated. Maybe that is why designer Sabrina Goh feels the need to excavate the sinister in the woman in our society, an inspiration that ignited her fourth collection for label ELOHIM.  Named “Poison Ivy”, the Autumn/Winter 2010 collection for ELOHIM showcases a spectrum of colour, material, construction and proportion to express the properties of the character. 

Tripping us with more her illustrated exoticism, Sabrina Goh shares the inspirations to the construction behind the latest collection from ELOHIM, as well as all things trivia of the force behind the label in our exclusive interview. By Luth Seah Zhiqiang
 

TSG: What was the starting point for your Autumn/Winter 2010 collection?
 

Autumn/Winter 2010 expresses my feeling, inspired by the some incidents that happened. Whenever I feel weak or discouraged, I translate these sensations into drawings/designs. This helps me to stay positive and courageous despite bumps in life. These experiences force anyone to build up an outer layer of new self and conceal past memories subconsciously. Though they might have made progression in life, they don’t make incredible leaps to their lives. I hope that through my work, people will feel encouraged to change in their ideals about themselves, hold on to positivity and step up the values in their lives. 

TSG: How do you start working on this new collection, and how do you go about designing the pieces?
 

ELOHIM’s Fall Winter 2010 collection is inspired by the concept metaphor of POISON IVY: A lover, a fighter and a femme fatale. A poisonous plant, a Marvel comic character from the Batman series, a metaphor for the modern woman, alluring powering and able to defend herself. POISON IVY is a walking contradiction and mysterious creature. She is a woman who inspires delicate romance and deadly reaction. 

TSG: What other artists do you admire in your own field of work?
 

The late Alexander McQueen, Grace Coddington, Nicholas Ghesquiere, Ricardo Tisci, Steven Klein and Sazeli Jalal.

TSG: Before achieving such tremendous amount of success on the local fashion scene, how did you first know that you wanted to become an artist, or your first encounter in designing?

Fashion had always been the dream job since young. I remembered my father asking me if I was interested in becoming a fashion designer, perhaps he could see it was a gift in me. I was not artistically brought up as a child, but my father who was an architect draughtsman inspired me, and I always helped him to watercolour. After my “O” Levels, I continued my passion and studied at LASALLE SIA College of the Arts, majoring in Fashion Design. I participated in Singapore Young Designer ‘06 and ‘07 and was a finalist for both competitions. It was a great way to showcase my creativity in public, and I could not be who I am now without the great experiences to mould me. 

TSG: What is your idea of Elohim in a woman? 

ELOHIM’s stark silhouettes portray the image of strength and vulnerability, having confidence on the outside and internally.

TSG: Why did you move to Singapore, and how do you compare it to Malaysia? 

Singapore is the closest country to home and is a well-known safe place to study. The move to Singapore was a natural decision after many years of influenced by Singaporean TV shows, radio and magazines. Back then, I was inspired by K.MI Huang, a senior at Lasalle College of the Arts, also the designer behind WOMB won the Singapore Fashion Designer Contest 2001. I hoped to be as successful as her by enrolling myself in the same school that she studied at.

TSG: Your advertising campaign photos are often quite dark and haunting, is there any particular inspiration? 

 
My campaigns are emotionally influenced and reflect the concept behind the collection. I like the fact that the photographs are not taken in perfect overly happy manner but in a social realistic way. My campaigns have their hidden messages to encourage people to stay strong in life, hence the tougher strong styling.

TSG: What is the best piece of advice you’ve been given?

“When you have faith to see your dreams come to past, you are halfway there to your goal.”

TSG: What was the most excited project/ work you had been involved and why?

Mango Fashion Awards El Boton 3rd Edition and shortlisted as one of Top 46 Finalists worldwide. I feel it is always good to get involved in local or overseas competitions because I am constantly kept on my toes and there always will be a thirst for improvement. 

TSG: Who would be the ideal public ambassador for the brand? 

Kate Lanphear. 

TSG: How do fashion and photography coexist for you or ELOHIM? 

Photography is important especially in fashion, as they are fronts to portray and translate a brand/collection’s image, concept and sensation.

TSG: What do you think of luxury designers collaborating with and having their work mass-produced for stores like Uniqlo? Do you think, in the long run, it will affect the artistic integrity of the fashion industry as a whole?

Designers take pride in the works they produce; creativity will not be compromised for something even that basic. Mass produced brands like Uniqlo had been successful in selling their concepts and products even as it outreaches to the masses. I do not think it will affect the artistic integrity of the fashion industry because it is targeted to different market. 

TSG: Lastly, any advice you will offer to aspiring designers?

 
My advice will be to set your goals and head forth to achieve them. Do not be afraid to dream, as you will never know how sharp your pencil is until you sharpen it. As they always say “Work without dream is treacherous. Dream without work will always be a dream”.

Link

Elohim

Photo: XiaXue wearing bespoke wedding dress by Keith Png

 
The Interview

Not only appearing in countless local shows featuring fashion design and styling, not many local designers get to own a celebrity status like Keith Png. The owner of boutique Hide & Seek (which has recently relocated to 176 Telok Ayer Street) Keith has proven himself not just any designer or stylist, but also an entrepreneur with an ambitious mind.

In our exclusive interview with the veteran designer, Keith gave us a peek into the local celebrity circle, as well as his most recent collaboration for local blogger XiaXue’s wedding dress. By Luth Seah Zhiqiang 

Test Shoot Gallery (TSG): What was the idea behind the opening of your boutique Hide & Seek?

Keith Png (KP) : “Seeking the best in hiding”.  

TSG: Tell us more about the reason behind the shift of location?

KP: That’s the idea of Hide & Seek! I want to constantly relocate my hiding place so that my customers can experience other unexpected discovery while seeking for us in Singapore.

TSG: You recently designed the wedding dress for local blogger Xiaxue. Tell us more of the process, the inspiration behind the dress, and why she is a good representative of a Keith Png wedding dress?

KP: It was fun working with Xiaxue. At the back of my mind, I expected her request to be over-the-top, something extra-glamorous. But after much discussion, I realised that her idea was to look pretty, and was really open to my design suggestions.

She eventually came up with a mafia theme for the wedding, which gave me the idea of a Marilyn Monroe-inspired pouf mini dress for her.

Xiaxue knew exactly what she wanted and she trusted me to deliver. A good representative of a Keith Png dress is a confident woman.

TSG: Although you have impressive celebrity clients, you stock some underrated designers in your boutiques. Is it important to you to be supportive of young talents?

KP: Yes of course, I have been through times of being underrated myself, and so I know how it is like not being able to find a retail outlet as a supporting platform.

TSG: Who would be your ultimate muse in terms of styling?

KP: Madonna or her daughter Lourdes

TSG: How would our describe the style of Singaporean women?

KP: Casual.

TSG: What are the key accessories that you would not leave home without?

KP: Blackberry, my Corum watch, and my Bvlgari ring.

TSG: Unlike most designers and entrepreneurs, who spend most of the time behind the scene, you are featured in a lot of shows and interviews. Has it been more helpful or more pressurizing?

KP: Both. The exposure has strengthened my profile which has helped me in terms of gaining more recognition and professional respect from the public. However, it is also pressurizing as I’ll have to be more “well-behaved” when I am in the public eye.

TSG: Since you have been mostly based in Singapore, how has it inspired or affected your designing works?

KP: Factors such as Singapore’s tropical weather affect my designs to a certain degree, and how women like functionality in their apparels inspires me to create more dresses with no frills.

TSG: You have a great following from local celebrities, why do you think you have so much celebrity fans?

KP: I have been told that I am approachable and helpful.

TSG: What are some of your most memorable times throughout your career so far (e.g first dress, first celebrity styling, awards, etc)?

KP: I must say, my first involvement in the local TV program Channel ‘U’, Fashion Asia, really gave me lots of happy memories. It was my first time hosting and a really good opportunity to learn more about the fashion scene in Asia. I had so much fun with all the fatastic co-hosts who were kind and patient with me.

Being involved in some of the greatest moments of celebrities’ big day like Fann Wong and Xiaxue’s Registry of Marriage, Joi Chua and Kym Ng’s wedding. As well as being able to travel overseas to attend to my client with VIP treatment.

TSG: What do you foresee the future of our local fashion scene?

KP: As the current youth are all fashion, Internet, and business savvy, I would say that it looks promising.

TSG: Your thoughts about avant-garde fashion in Singapore? Do Singaporeans just accept wearability?

KP: How avant-garde can we be in Singapore? It is a question of lifestyle, do we have that kind of life style that allow us to dress avant-gardish?? No, we don’t.

TSG: In terms of fashion, which countries/cities do you think relates to Keith Png the most? And why?

KP: Can’t really put my hands on a specific reason, but I really love the fashion in Berlin.

TSG: What exactly is fashion in the eyes of keith png?

KP: Frivolous.

TSG: Thank you for this wonderful conversation.

KP: You’re Welcome.

Links

Keith Png
Hide & Seek
XiaXue’s Blog