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Posts Tagged ‘Autumn Winter 2010’

young&restless “RITUAL” Autumn/Winter 2010 campaign & interview by TSG coming your way..

August 23rd, 2010 Comments off

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The Team

Photography / May Lin Le Goff
Designer & Creative Direction / Ashburn Eng
Graphic Artist / Yong Yi ( www.yongyidesign.com )
Make-up and Hair / Larry Yeo
Model  / Egzona Lulaj ( Upfront Models )
Styling Assistance / Shanna Matthew

Max.Tan “AGAINST” Autumn Winter 2010 Campaign by Test Shoot Gallery

July 19th, 2010 Comments off








 
 
 
The Team
Photography / May Lin Le Goff
Creative & Fashion Direction / Ashburn Eng
Fashion Designer / Max.Tan by Max Tan
Make-up / Mav Chang
Hair / Annie Tay
Model & Text / Luth Seah Zhiqiang
Styling Assistance / Shanna Matthew

 

 

The Interview

Max Tan has returned in new collaboration with Test Shoot Gallery for his Autumn/Winter 2010 collection titled “Against”. This collection follows the success of the first ad campaign for his Spring/Summer S2010 “Pressed” collection, also with Test Shoot Gallery.  Featuring a darker colour palette and a looser draping silhouette, the emerging designer challenges us with the question of what’s right (or wrong) in fashion. Hear about the designer’s opinion on conventional society, the “austere” emotion in his pieces, as well as all the must-knows about the designer behind this ever-growing eponymous label in our second exclusive Test Shoot Gallery interview. By Luth Seah Zhiqiang

 

 

 

 

 

TSG: The most of the world we live in has nothing to do with fashion nor finds interest in it. Whom do you work for and target? What does your work reflect?

I work purely for my own vision and by asking rhetorical questions. Through this rhetoric, I challenge how I can answer with my collection in a different manner. In that way, I hope to change the stereotypical image that the mainstream relates to the fashion industry, and I hope through that, it engages people to relate more to fashion, that there is more than what is presented to them on a commercial platform.

 

 

TSG: Can you tell us a bit about the starting point of the A/W collection? Technically, what are the differences between this season compared to your past collection?

The starting point of each max.tan collection is always either a question, or a challenge. It challenges the way we perceive objects, subjects or sometimes just purely a notion. S/S 2010 Pressed challenged the different ways I could re-imagine a white shirt. A/W 2010-11 challenges the right and wrong ways of traditional drafting. What is deemed right or wrong? Can the wrong be made to look right? If so, is the end result still regarded as a mistake?

 

 

TSG: In provoking the notion of “traditional methods of pattern making”, did you come across any interesting or unexpected interpretations of your collection by different people?

It is definitely an interesting collection to work on. Some have looked at my garments and have had difficulties in identifying the conflicting  elements used. For instance a particular piece from the collection is a jumpsuit which can be worn as a dress- it seems right when worn as a jumpsuit, what they do not realise is that the dress can be created off the jumpsuit from a different perspective. Worn as a dress, the jumpsuit hangs off it when looked at straight on.  Which is right then? Ultimately, this collection serves to send a message that we no longer have to care about what is right or wrong. Would you rather be right, or free?
 

 

TSG: Your collection seems to lean strongly towards the austere? Why do you think austerity is often dark and surreal with the suggestion of tragedy and death?

In death, everything that one acquires during his lifetime is proven to be transient. Everything is once again, blank. Austerity is simple, blank and stripped of details. That is also the reason why the collection vaguely alludes to funeral clothing.
 

 

TSG: What materials have you worked with in this collection to create such textural and protective shapes?

I worked with a crepe for this particular collection. It was a popular fabric for power suits during the ’80s. Camouflaged by the sharp lines of the suits, we have truly neglected how beautiful it is when the fabric is allowed to fall freely.

 

 

TSG: You mostly use dark and monochrome colours – is that why you don’t believe in seasons? What was the inspiration behind the colours?

A main area of interest in my creations are silhouettes. I believe monochromatic colours do not distract one’s eye from how differently or interesting my silhouettes are.

 

 

TSG: What are your opinions about life in conventional society?

At times, I do feel quite alone. It is hard to find someone whom I can relate to, even harder to have someone give constructive comments because there is hardly anyone I know that can understand what I am doing.  Then again, I am thankful for the few who understand and constantly critique my works so that I can improve.

 

 

TSG: Can you tell us a bit about your environment while growing up?

I grew up in a typically Singaporean environment. As a boy, I was not expected to do fashion despite the influence of my seamstress mother. Everyone seemed too caught up in the pursuit of the correct path that I was to
take on. It came to a point that I realised I needed to start living my own life and make my own choices. My teenage years were confusing with regards to my sexual orientation and career. I was considered unorthodox in the grownups’ eyes. It wasn’t a particularly enjoyable growing up experience, but it has contributed to who I have become.

 

 

TSG: If not for fashion, what would you be doing now and why?

I would have been a musician. Like fashion, it provides an escape from this endless pursuit of normality.

 

 

TSG: What is the worst question you have ever been asked?

Why I make clothes that do not fit. I see my creations as a cocoon, a safe armor that shields one from the stereotypical world. I disagree that my clothes are oversized, but in certain areas, it is made to fit and sit well on the wearer. I think creating this space between the wearer’s body and the garment is far more challenging than making clothes that just pieces together like a flat jigsaw puzzle. I prefer it to look at clothes in a 3D way, like a sculpture, rather than a painting.

 

 

TSG: How do you pick your materials, and what goes into your decisions when putting them together?

With an idea of the silhouette that I have in mind for the collection, I proceed to choosing the right fabrics which will in turn give me the desired results. It does take some experimentation with sample yardages for certain complex designs. I have do have a preference towards either fabrics in which are easy to sculpt, or fabrics with enough weight to fall nicely. The wearer’s comfort is also another important deciding factor. Although I
like the relation between fashion and art, fashion is however not entirely art.

 

 

TSG: How did fashion appeal to you to become a designer?

Garments allow one to take on an identity; changing our identities when we put on a different outfit. I think I am particularly drawn to fashion because, to a certain extent, I am an escapist. Clothes serve as an escape from who I need to become or who I am.

 

 

TSG: What does the term ‘beauty’ mean to you?

Beauty to me is fragile and transient but a non-stop chase to the end of the rainbow.

 

 

TSG: Can you tell us about your design process?

I start each collection with a challenge. I start draping and sketching at the same time. As I work with readily available monochromatic colours, I source only when I have finalised my designs. However during the design process, the properties of the ideal fabric are taken into consideration when developing the collection.

 

 

TSG: Best compliment ever?

It would have to be ranked together with the big players (Prada, Alexander Mcqueen, Valentino etc) in the summary of Spring/Summer 2010 women’s wear campaigns on the trend forecasting and reporting website, Stylesight.com. It was an extremely captivating campaign envisioned by Test Shoot Gallery and it proved so successful that it caught the eyes of the analysts behind a trend forecasting service.

Link

 

Interview with Singapore fashion designer Sabrina Goh

June 28th, 2010 Comments off

 

  

   

The Interview

Let us face it, women can be vicious. Executed as a self-defense “tool”, or just out of fulfillment for their dark side, they are the species not to be underestimated. Maybe that is why designer Sabrina Goh feels the need to excavate the sinister in the woman in our society, an inspiration that ignited her fourth collection for label ELOHIM.  Named “Poison Ivy”, the Autumn/Winter 2010 collection for ELOHIM showcases a spectrum of colour, material, construction and proportion to express the properties of the character. 

Tripping us with more her illustrated exoticism, Sabrina Goh shares the inspirations to the construction behind the latest collection from ELOHIM, as well as all things trivia of the force behind the label in our exclusive interview. By Luth Seah Zhiqiang
 

   

   

TSG: What was the starting point for your Autumn/Winter 2010 collection?
 

Autumn/Winter 2010 expresses my feeling, inspired by the some incidents that happened. Whenever I feel weak or discouraged, I translate these sensations into drawings/designs. This helps me to stay positive and courageous despite bumps in life. These experiences force anyone to build up an outer layer of new self and conceal past memories subconsciously. Though they might have made progression in life, they don’t make incredible leaps to their lives. I hope that through my work, people will feel encouraged to change in their ideals about themselves, hold on to positivity and step up the values in their lives. 

   

   

TSG: How do you start working on this new collection, and how do you go about designing the pieces?
 

ELOHIM’s Fall Winter 2010 collection is inspired by the concept metaphor of POISON IVY: A lover, a fighter and a femme fatale. A poisonous plant, a Marvel comic character from the Batman series, a metaphor for the modern woman, alluring powering and able to defend herself. POISON IVY is a walking contradiction and mysterious creature. She is a woman who inspires delicate romance and deadly reaction. 

   

   

TSG: What other artists do you admire in your own field of work?
 

The late Alexander McQueen, Grace Coddington, Nicholas Ghesquiere, Ricardo Tisci, Steven Klein and Sazeli Jalal.

  

   

TSG: Before achieving such tremendous amount of success on the local fashion scene, how did you first know that you wanted to become an artist, or your first encounter in designing?

 

Fashion had always been the dream job since young. I remembered my father asking me if I was interested in becoming a fashion designer, perhaps he could see it was a gift in me. I was not artistically brought up as a child, but my father who was an architect draughtsman inspired me, and I always helped him to watercolour. After my “O” Levels, I continued my passion and studied at LASALLE SIA College of the Arts, majoring in Fashion Design. I participated in Singapore Young Designer ‘06 and ‘07 and was a finalist for both competitions. It was a great way to showcase my creativity in public, and I could not be who I am now without the great experiences to mould me. 

 

 

TSG: What is your idea of Elohim in a woman? 

 

ELOHIM’s stark silhouettes portray the image of strength and vulnerability, having confidence on the outside and internally.

 

 

TSG: Why did you move to Singapore, and how do you compare it to Malaysia? 

 

Singapore is the closest country to home and is a well-known safe place to study. The move to Singapore was a natural decision after many years of influenced by Singaporean TV shows, radio and magazines. Back then, I was inspired by K.MI Huang, a senior at Lasalle College of the Arts, also the designer behind WOMB won the Singapore Fashion Designer Contest 2001. I hoped to be as successful as her by enrolling myself in the same school that she studied at.

 

 

TSG: Your advertising campaign photos are often quite dark and haunting, is there any particular inspiration? 

 
My campaigns are emotionally influenced and reflect the concept behind the collection. I like the fact that the photographs are not taken in perfect overly happy manner but in a social realistic way. My campaigns have their hidden messages to encourage people to stay strong in life, hence the tougher strong styling.

 

 

TSG: What is the best piece of advice you’ve been given?


“When you have faith to see your dreams come to past, you are halfway there to your goal.”

 

 

TSG: What was the most excited project/ work you had been involved and why?

 

Mango Fashion Awards El Boton 3rd Edition and shortlisted as one of Top 46 Finalists worldwide. I feel it is always good to get involved in local or overseas competitions because I am constantly kept on my toes and there always will be a thirst for improvement. 

 

 

TSG: Who would be the ideal public ambassador for the brand? 

Kate Lanphear. 

 

 

TSG: How do fashion and photography coexist for you or ELOHIM? 

Photography is important especially in fashion, as they are fronts to portray and translate a brand/collection’s image, concept and sensation.

 

 

TSG: What do you think of luxury designers collaborating with and having their work mass-produced for stores like Uniqlo? Do you think, in the long run, it will affect the artistic integrity of the fashion industry as a whole?


Designers take pride in the works they produce; creativity will not be compromised for something even that basic. Mass produced brands like Uniqlo had been successful in selling their concepts and products even as it outreaches to the masses. I do not think it will affect the artistic integrity of the fashion industry because it is targeted to different market. 

 

 

TSG: Lastly, any advice you will offer to aspiring designers?

 
My advice will be to set your goals and head forth to achieve them. Do not be afraid to dream, as you will never know how sharp your pencil is until you sharpen it. As they always say “Work without dream is treacherous. Dream without work will always be a dream”.

Link

Elohim

Shito “del.icio.us” Autumn Winter 2010 Campaign by Test Shoot Gallery

May 11th, 2010 Comments off

 

“del.icio.us” presents a palate of colors – in stripes, bright shades, glitter and prints – influenced by retro pop culture. Shito brings these colors into strips of suede, PVC and snakeskin leather. This sinfully irresistible collection screams, “You know you want it!” to all women out there. 

Shito enters Autumn/Winter 2010 in its most titillating form. The collection rebels against traditional fashion trends and chooses instead to flirt with colors in the grayest season of the fashion year. The collection “del.icio.us” is just too delish to resist!

The Team 


Photography / May Lin Le Goff
Creative and Fashion Direction / Ashburn Eng
Shoes / Shito
Make-up & Hair  / Chris Ruth
Tattoo Artist / Jeremy Tan
Styling Assistance / Shanna Matthew 
Interview  / Luth Seah Zhiqiang
Model / Anna L  

  

Shito, despite being a young shoe label freshly introduced to our local designing scene, proves that it is packed with enough sensuality to flirt with the feet of our local woman. In conjunction with the collaboration together with TSG for their latest ad campaign, Alice Soedirman (one-half behind the label) helps familiarize us with the label more in our exclusive interview. 

  
TSG: Tell us a little more about yourself, as well as “Shito” the shoe label?
 
 Alice: 5 years ago, I came to Singapore from Indonesia to pursue my studies in fashion design in Lasalle College of Arts. It was during my last academic year, we (my design partner Cheryl Mok and I) decided to launch “Shito”.  Shito is a new exclusive footwear targeted for women who want to make a bold artistic statement. Created in early 2009, Shito produces shoes that were one-offs which the intersection of arts and the nature of the human body. Our vision for Shito is to produce well-heeled shoes that encompass erotica attraction, built with a sense of being in control and empowerment to the wearer. We believe in the quote from Geoff Nicholeson – “What a good shoe crucially does and must do, is to reveal the foot, enhance and display it, offer a frame and a setting for it.”
 
 
TSG:How and what motivated/inspired you to launch “Shito”?
 
Alice: As a shoe lover myself (which girl is not by the way?), I have always dreamed about owning a pair of shoes that could provide the perfect balance of comfort and excellent design. After experiencing shoes designing module in my last academic year in Lasalle, “Shito” idea was borned and launched.

 

TSG: This season you included wedges and flats, a different addition to your normally high heels-dominated collections in the past. Are there any reasons why?

Alice: We wanted to expand our footwear range to our fabulous heels. At Shito, we truly believe that great shoes come in any height.

 

TSG: What are the references you always come back to in your work? Are they any techniques you employed so far in designing and creating your shoes fascinated you the most?

Alice: I am constantly amazed by how a pair of good shoes can beautifully frame a woman’s legs. With designing, I always come back to how I can frame that leg to its outmost beauty. Technically, I find footwear designing fascinating as it demands me to look at many different perspectives that were never considered in the process of apparel design. For example, the space within the shoes needed for the arch of the foot, and the construction of stable high heels are crucial considerations in the designing process.

 

TSG: What is your idea of elegance in a woman?

Alice: I believe elegance is something that cannot be bought but is possessed naturally. To me a woman is elegant when she is confident in herself and knows how to carry herself in grace and femininity.

 

TSG: Who would be the ideal public ambassador for the brand? And if there is one, who is your muse?

Alice: Dita Von Teese. She carries sexiness in the most elegant and feminine way. She is sultry and has a little teasing edge, everything that Shito stands for.

 

TSG: What would be your own personal shoe choices?

Alice: Definitely high heels. I want to wear high heels 24 hours 7 days a week.

 

TSG: Do you have any plans to expand to other countries?

Alice: Yes. Aside from Singapore, we are currently available in Jakarta, Indonesia. We are also in the process of expanding to Malaysia, and hopefully to Australia as well.

 

TSG: With the upcoming trend of couture shoe designers like Christian Louboutin collaborating with Rodarte to create statement pieces for the runway, which major fashion houses would you love to design for and why? 

Alice: Dolce and Gabbana, and it would be a dream come true. As a designer, I have always been fascinated with 2 things- shoes and corsets. To me, no other brand portrays sex, confidence, and elegance in a woman better than Dolce and Gabbanna.

 

TSG: How did you get to know Test Shoot Gallery? 

Alice: Test Shoot Gallery has been gaining reputation in the local fashion scene for their amazing advertising campaigns, and their various collaborations with various designers did manage to create a buzz.

 

TSG: What made you collaborate with Test Shoot Gallery for your ad campaign this season? 

Alice: The amazing advertising campaigns that Test Shoot Gallery have produced reflects their understandings of each label’s individual point of view.

 

TSG: Is the idea of creative collaboration important to you? 

Alice: Yes. As a designer, I believe with a balance of good design and individuality of the label will always reach out to the everyone out there. Hence, creative collaborations are one of the best platforms to showcase that balance.

 

TSG: Besides platforms like Singapore Fashion Festival to create awareness, what kind of support do you feel home grown labels need?

Alice: I think home grown labels need more frequent media exposure and support like being featured in the magazines, workshops and Asia-wide tradeshows. Frequent media coverage will create more awareness for home grown labels for local market knowledge.

 

Stockists

Antipodean            27a  lorong mambong                                                          Tel: +65 6463 7336
Blackmarket           19 Jalan Pisang                                                                    Tel: +65 62968512
Fashion First          Senayan City 1st Floor Kav. 12, Jl. Asia Afrika Lot. 19  Jakarta          
Shito                       www.shitoonline.com
Ztamp                     Far East Plaza, #03-47                                                      Tel: +65 63338526
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