The Team
Photography / May Lin Le Goff
Designer & Creative Direction / Ashburn Eng
Graphic Artist / Yong Yi ( www.yongyidesign.com )
Make-up and Hair / Larry Yeo using Cle De Peau Beaute and Redken
Model  / Egzona Lulaj ( Upfront Models )
Styling Assistance / Shanna Matthew  

TSG is excited and very proud to announce the launch of the new label young&restless, a line designed by our TSG founder, Ashburn Eng, in collaboration with Singaporean label max.tan. Hear it from the man himself about the setting up of the label, crossing over to design and the inspiration behind the first collection titled “Ritual” in our exclusive TSG interview. By Luth Seah Zhiqiang

The Interview

Drawing inspiration from the fluid and expansive qualities of the arts, designer Alicia from AL&ALICIA, illustrates how street culture can be skillfully infused with creativity. The budding label with only its second collection out for Autumn/Winter 2010, their promising designs have definitely caught our attention at Test Shoot Gallery. We bring you the process behind the creation of the A/W 2010 collection, Alicia’s experiences as a Parsons graduate in NYC, as well as all the trivia in between. By Luth Seah Zhiqiang

TSG: Where does the label’s name come from?

It came about when I imagined a girl borrowing pieces from boyfriend’s closet or even her dad’s and making them her own. That fascination evolved into the idea of offering a boyish-yet-flirty street-wear label, and that is what AL&ALCIA is about.

AL likes tailoring with a masculine edge.
ALICIA likes all things flirty and feminine.
The two of them combined, is AL & ALICIA.

The truth is, AL is ALICIA, and ALICIA is AL.

TSG: How do you find your materials and what does into your decisions when incoporating them together?

The sourcing of fabrics has always been a big challenge as we consider comfort, quality and the texture of the materials before the final selection. We go through great lengths and details to design and assemble
everything- from the fabrics, to the trims, to even the care labels.

TSG: How would you describe your design aesthetic?

Incorporating street culture with the music and the arts into the designs.

TSG: Can you tell us about the relationship between the two female leads who inspired this collection?

.02 Collection titled In Love With A Girl stemmed from the relationship between two best friends. That intimate relationship between friends that most people experienced in their lifetime. A best friend that we can always count on to laugh and cry with. Share unspoken words but connected thoughts; this led to the creation of a happy palette filled with muted colors and bright floral prints, coupled with casual, simple silhouettes, made just for them.

TSG: Why did you become a fashion designer?

I guess it was all those art and dance lessons that we went through. I ended up loving to draw, sketch, sew and make things. As a child, I would take a large towel and wrap it around myself, pin or fold them, and start experimenting the different ways of creating a dress.

TSG: Can you tell us abit about your environment while growing up?

I grew up in a typical traditional family of engineers and accountants in a large house that accommodated 3 families. My childhood followed was that of a typical Singaporean where education was top priority. With a big family living under one roof, it was fantastic to have many playmates; and since most of them were boys, I guess that is where my boyish and sporty personality stemmed from.

TSG: What does the term “beauty” mean you?

Inner self.

TSG:  What did you learn interning with Marc Jacobs, J Crew and Donna Karen?

The experience gained from working with the whole design team; from the initial design thought processes to the lead up towards the fashion shows during fashion week.

TSG: From your advertising campaigns, subconscious moments of the models seems to be constantly captured. Do you prefer such presentation over more deliberate poses from the models?

We are influenced by street culture and deliberate high-fashion poses do not represent us. Subliminal photography works best with our clothes as it bests exudes the story and personality behind the label.

TSG: In what ways are personal appearance and lifestyle important to you?

Honestly, I have no time to pay much attention to my appearances or lifestyle as I am constantly working in the studio, spending late nights with Maki Maki (my beloved mannequin).

TSG: Have you been influenced by any specific designer or movements? If so, by who, or which which movement and why?

Richard Chai. Having interned with him for a few months, I was full of respect and admiration for this guy. The way he thinks and designs, the way he worked with the team of patternmakers really is inspiring and sets me
in awe.

TSG: What are you working on at the moment and what future projects can anticipate from you?

We are working on our next collection and an accessories line. We’re turning one this year and are in the midst of planning a party as well as a project, a collaboration and an exhibition.

TSG: As you have been trained in Parsons, how was your homecoming like?

Bittersweet. It felt good to be home with my family and friends, but there really is NO place like New York.

TSG: And why did you decide not to stay in New York?

Well, I did not really have a choice as my one-year work visa was up and I was not able to extend it.

TSG: Share with us what are the perks and peeves about a young designer in Singapore?

Perks: The support of the press and media towards young Singaporean designers.

Peeves: The lack of funding support from government agencies and Singaporeans consumers, as well as the notion that young local designers equate cheaply priced goods.

TSG: Beside platforms like the Singapore Fashion Festival to create awareness, what kind of support do you feel home-grown labels need?

To have crowd funding. That is something I read about lately which I feel we could definitely do with locally.

Fashion is constantly evolving and the notion that fashion is not an art or should not be considered an art form should be discarded. I really hope that our government take fashion seriously and award more support in terms of funding and sponsorship. It is only with the government and media’s support, will Singaporeans be encouraged to follow suit.

TSG: Who would be your ideal muse and why?

Dakota Fanning. She has this quirky beautiful look about her and I just love everything about her.

The Interview

A veteran couturier for the past two decades, Tan Yoong might just be the only designer from our local ground to reach legendary status. Known for his exquisite craftmanship and tailoring from his made-to-measure label, which includes a couture bridal line, it should come with no surprise that his main group of clients are attributed with having elegant taste.

Tan Yoong gives us an eye-opening view of the highs and lows of his prolific career thus far, and hints at what he has in store for his label in our exclusive Test Shoot Gallery interview. By Luth Seah Zhiqiang

TSG: What kind of environment did you grow up in?

I can recall that I enjoyed drawing from a young age. I frequently used chalk to draw female forms attending different parties in different  outfits, as if they had a endless supply of clothes designed for parties.

My parents and siblings were very supportive of my choice to do art despite the fact of them having little understanding of the arts. Perhaps it was because I was the youngest in the family.

I was naturally attracted to the aesthetics and beauty of the female form (always sketching made-up eyes or lips). As a teenager, I was very much influenced by my sister’s many issues of Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar. I remember David Bailey’s shoots with Jean Shrimpton, Penelope Tree and Marie Helvin, and also the pictures of Irving Penn and Horst. I was fascinated by the compositions in the photos, and it molded my base of aesthetic appreciation.

After pre-university, I pursued the arts by enrolling into the Nanyang Academy of Fine Arts. After graduation, I became a graphic artist, because back in those days, aspiring locasl fashion designers were unheard of!

Eventually, I went into advertising and I worked my way up to become an art director in BateyAds, which really widened my view to the world of design. It sharpened my skills enough to differentiate and allowed me to strive towards an international feel in all aspects of my work. Till today, I am still applying the knowledge learnt from advertising to my fashion designing.

TSG: What was the starting point for you in the arts? How did you know that you wanted to become an artist?

I think it is a gift from God. I was always my art teachers’ favourite student. Always excelling in art although I did badly in other subjects.

I excelled even in my advertising days when I won top awards in poster design, lettering design, interior design and fashion design. I best expressed my ideas in an artsy way, and I enjoyed and appreciated anything to do with art expression – be it photography, fashion, culture, dance, music, etc. I still do of course!
 

TSG: How would you describe your design aesthetic?

My design aesthetic would be ethereal and fluid, always feminine and dreamy in terms of silhouette and detailing.

TSG: Why the move from being an art director to a fashion designer, and how do you compare it to your job as an art director?

First of all, I love fashion. Unlike advertising (especially locally because one’s creativity is controlled or dictated by your clients), fashion gives me more freedom to fantasize and dream. I am not a wordsmith, so if I am not in fashion, I would most probably be doing something associated with fine arts, photography, or interior design.
 

TSG:  What is the biggest risk you’ve ever taken?

To quit advertising and start my own fashion label without knowing anything about the business!

TSG: What was the most excited project you had been involved and why?

Two fashion design contests I took part in Tokyo in 1974 and 1976 while working in advertising. Those were the only chances I could show off my fashion flair and I was the first non-Japanese to win worldwide! I felt like I was representing Singapore and it was my first trip to Japan, where I was chauffeured everywhere with a lady translator in tow. It was an amazing experience!
 
 

TSG: You certainly seem to be reaching for the surreal and cinematic effects in your advertising campaigns for your label. What led you in that direction with your work? Did you feel disillusioned with mainstream fashion photography?

I am very much a dreamer. I like to think about a woman in different moods and situations. I try to break free from repeating my works and to achieve a cosmopolitan appeal to my designs.
 

TSG: Do you like the models doing typical model poses when you are directing the shoots?

In the beginning, the models called me a professional bone-breaker, because I put them in impossible poses just to be unique! Nowadays, I want them to be natural, but still portraying a certain character in a story. Of course, it has to show my clothes in the perfect angle.
 

TSG: In your opinion, what’s a designer’s role in the current economic climate?

I think designers have to work more magic to attract. What’s the balance between refining the signature of the house each season and doing something new? It seems there’s tremendous pressure now to do something completely new every time. Yes, it’s not easy to achieve the balance to please your followers and to attract new customers.
 

TSG: In five words, what does beauty represent to you?

Anything that pleases my eyes.

TSG: What other artists do you admire in your own field of work?

Currently, I admire the design sensibilities of Alber Elbaz for Lanvin, as well as the Mulleavy sisters from Rodarte.  Though, my all-time favourite is definitely still Christian Larcoix!
 

TSG: What was your most memorable work experience?

One of that moments has to be collaborating with photographer extraordinaire, Willie Tang. It is the way he shoots. Always inspiring and demanding perfection, whether it is from the models, the stylist, the setting, basically everything!

He has influenced my works and creative vision to higher standards; to try and view the ideas with perfection.
 

TSG: What makes you laugh? 

I laugh easily, I love sharing my laughter and joy with close ones. Although my friends always tease me about having a fierce exterior demeanour.

TSG: What are you working on at the moment, and what future projects do you have? 

For the year end, I am preparing the looks for my campaign, and I am exploring the idea of a film for that collection.

TSG: Do you have any advice for young people who would like to start a career as a fashion designer?
 
No advice, except that they need to have a lot of passion and patience, and be very focused on their work.
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Tan Yoong